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Greater Brisbane region
February can deliver extreme weather in terms of thunderstorms flooding and even cyclones. Maintenance tasks such as keeping gutters and drains free of debris, potential mosquito-breeding sites free of standing water and the yard free of loose items that could become projectiles in high winds are especially important at this time of year.
Dangerous trees that could come down on powerlines, homes or people are also a serious concern. If you fear they already have reached this stage, engage a qualified arborist for further advice, thinning or removal. If you have recently planted young trees, did you research the mature height and take this into account before selecting a location? If you have doubts, it may be better to eliminate the tree now and start again with something more suitable in that spot (your local council and/or your local utilitiy companies may be able to provide some suggestions). If you're still keen on growing that type of tree, can one be planted in a more suitable location, before you've lost any more growing time? This might be a preferable to expensive tree removal years down the track, or worse still, a tragedy.
After all the January rain, your garden is probably overgrown, nutrient stressed and possibly waterlogged, so and may need some immediate attention.
Most ornamentals will appreciate fertiliser to replace nutrients leached away, and set them up for the autumn growing season. If there's still a lot of rain about, breaking a normal application up into smaller doses spread over the next few weeks can help reduce leaching losses.
If the soil has become very acid (do a pH test), you might wish to apply lime or dolomite. Pay special attenion to beds you indend to plant sweet peas, edible peas or beans or in the autumn. This will give it time to take effect. Avoid appling fertilisers containing nitrogen at the same time as lime or dolomite.
See also Soils, Plant Nutrition,
Soft and nutrient-stressed plants may also be more susceptible than usual to a whole range of pests and diseases, which are prolific at this time of year anyway. Be vigilant. Remember that preventing reproduction and proliferation now will help reduce problems in subsequent seasons.
Root rots are likely to show up in many gardens with waterlogged soils. Sensitive species in poorly drained positions might have done well enough during the drought, but could be paying the price now. Symptoms might not become obvious until the rain stops and palnts are hit by sun and heat.
Do give plants a little time to adapt (after such a lengthy period of wet and overcast conditions the foliage is bound to be quite soft), but wilted foliage, even though the soil is still moist, is an indication of an compromised root system. Badly rotted plants may rock in the ground. Infections may take some time to progress to the point of showing symptoms above ground, so keep an eye out in the coming months (or even years in the case of large trees).
See also Pests and Diseases.
If plants are still healthy but in danger, consider relocation or at least take cuttings for later planting in a better drained position. Depending on the location, it may be possible to improve drainage through appropriate landscaping solutions.
Once the weather fines up and the ground dries out enough to work on, you might be faced with having to tidy up lots of overgrown vegetation. Perhaps you'll consider using the material to create your own mulch or compost. On the other hand, maybe you'd prefer someone to take it all away, and even do all the work, too. Here are some links you might find useful:
How many other garden jobs you decide to take on may depend on the ongoing weather situation and the forcast ahead. February is still a very hot month, and most gardeners will be deferring non-essential garden tasks until conditions are more comfortable for both humans and plants alike.
However, with moisture in the soil, and water in the tanks, the upcoming autumn should be a good one for establishing new trees, shrubs and lawns.Take the time now to do some research in books, on the internet or by visiting some of our public gardens into which varieties are most suitable for your needs. Deciding on the right postion is also important. You can also get to work on preparing the site e.g clearing and weed control, and visting some local garden centres to see what's available. If you can't find the varieties you're after, ask if it might be possible to have them ordered for you.
Prune murraya when flowering finishes. Even if you don't need to shape the bush, this will serve to prevent seed-forming strains of the plant from setting fruit and being spread by birds.
The The Queensland Rose Society Inc recommend trimming roses now, in addition to fertilising, watering and mulching, to encourage a good autumn display. (Assuming you have modern repeat-flowering varieties.) See also Roses.
If your camellias produce lots of buds, yet disappointing flowers, try thinning them by twisting off some of the buds (disbudding). The Queensland Camellia Society suggest leaving 1-2 at the tip and 2 along the stem. They also suggest that this is a good time to take camellia cuttings.
If you were flooded and you grow edibles, take a look at the factsheet provided by the Brisbane City Council: Flood Fact Sheet - Advice for food safety and vegetable gardens (PDF).
Conditions for vegetables are still difficult at this time of year, but as we'll be moving into the autumn planting season soon, take this opportunity to tidy-up the vegetable garden and prepare beds for new crops. This includes adding lime or dolomite where necessary, especially if you intend growing peas or beans, the cabbage family and lettuce, or if you've had problems with blossom end rot on tomatoes previously. Keep beds well-mulched to reduce weed growth and erosion from summer storms.
If you want to grow heirloom or unusual seeds not readily available in local retail outlets, send off an order to a specialist seed vendor without delay to have them on hand in time for autumn planting and before stocks of popular varieties sell out.
If you want to have a go this month, try tomatoes, capsicums and eggplants; lettuce (heat-tolerant varieties); radish; beetroot and silverbeet; beans; cucumber and zucchini; cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower; turnip. Last chance for sweetcorn before it gets too cool.
See also: Vegetables, Seed raising.
Sorry, I haven't prepared any monthly notes for fruit trees yet. In the meantime, you can try the main page dealing with this subject and check the links for the type of fruit tree you're interested in, here: Fruit Trees
The Flower Garden
See also: Annual Flowers and Bedding Plants, Seed raising
Garden shows, open gardens
See the Events Diary
It might be too hot and/or wet to do very much in the garden at present, but autumn is approaching. Start thinking about what vegetables, flowering annuals and bulbs you might like to plant for winter-spring, and begin preparing beds. For the best selections, check out the online/mailorder suppliers and place an order early. Likwise, you might consider getting your rose orders in early to avoid dissapointment, even though bare-root plants won't be available until winter.
Put in your orders for strawberry runners for planting next month.
Autumn is great time to establish a wide variety of trees, shrubs and perennials, so use this down-time to plan new additions to the garden.
NB: These notes are under development. At present, the following applies to the greater Brisbane region only. It's hoped to expand these notes further in future updates, adding more information and eventually, more regions.
Naturally, this is a general guide only and will vary depending on local conditions, weather, plant variety etc.
Ongoing water availability is also a big concern these days, so take this into consideration too, especially if planning new gardens.
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